Selling Me Your Old/Bad Headlight
Motors
I am almost always buying working or non-working headlight motors.
Since I rebuild all motors I receive, I pay the same for working and non-working
motors. I give $25.00 for 84-86 motors, $25.00 for 87-88 motors and $40.00 for 93-02 motors.
You are responsible for shipping costs to send me the motors. Please
contact me first if you plan to send me more than a few motors.
Your 84-86 motors should be relatively complete, but I accept these motors
in nearly any condition. Since I don't intend to be able to use every
part from the cores I get, I'm not too fussy. For the 87-88 motors,
they should be in decent condition with no cut wires or missing parts.
There is often some confusion about where the motor ends and the rest
of the car begins. If you are sending cores, please try to send what
it is you received... the single piece arm that extends from the motors
main shaft should be included with your core motor.
Parts for Sale
I generally have parts available. They come and go. Here
is what I currently have and what I'd like to get for it. Please
email me if your looking for something that isn't there. My father-in-law
owns a salvage yard with several Fieros.
No parts available right now.
Diagnosing Your Headlight Motor Problems
1984-86 Fiero (82-86 Firebird)
There are a number of things that can be wrong with your headlight system
and not all of them involve replacing the headlight motors. Some
options are:
- Bad motor - stripped gear or worn/bent brushes.
- Bad actuator relay - there is one per motor, mounted on the headlight
assemblies
- Bad isolation relay - there is one located on the driver side inside
fender. (just follow the wires and you'll find it)
- Bad fuse - by your front compartment release lever
- Wiring/grounding problems
- Bad interior switch - left side of main console
If you purchased your car with non-working headlights, do not assume
that your headlight motors are plugged in. You may incorrectly diagnose
the problem because the headlights were never connected in the first place.
People generally disconnect the headlights because of a bad motor.
The main gear becomes stripped and the motor does not turn off even with
the keys out of the ignition. There is a single blue wire that connects
directly to the motor and a pair of green and grey wires that connect to
the motor through a relay which is attached to the headlight assembly.
Lets eliminate the easy options: Fuse and switch. You can
check your fuse box easily enough and verify that the 20amp fuse that controls
your headlights is not broken. If one headlight is working, but not
the other, you can also eliminate this problem. If your headlights
shine, but do not move up or down, then the interior switch is functioning
properly and is not to blame. Another easy fix not listed above is to
tap on the knob on top of the motor. This will sometimes get the motor
off and running again, though if you need to do this regularly, I would suggest
getting the motor rebuilt as it is obviously not running as smoothly as you
would like.
It certainly helps if one of your headlight motors is working.
If it is, you can eliminate the isolation relay. You can also move
the actuator relay from the working side to the non-working side to see if
that changes the side that is not working. If so, you have a bad actuator
relay.
If also helps to check if the motor works in only one direction.
Disconnect the blue wire and manually turn the motor until it is about half
way up. Reconnect the blue wire and try turning the headlights both
on and off. If the motor works in one of the directions but not the
others, there is also a good chance that a relay is to blame.