All
Purpose T-tunic
This Diagram (click
image for enlargement) gives a simple and reasonably authentic pattern
for a variety of clothing. By adjusting the angles of the side seams
and sleeves and adding gores or various sizes to the sides or back,
you can approximate anything from a Roman tunic to a Burgundian houpplelande.
If this
will be your first piece of "garb", consider a washable fabric in
cotton or a cotton and polyester blend, or a wool and polyester blend.
Although an all-polyester fabric is easy to care for, it may look
too "modern". The color can range from earth tones to vivid, bright
colors, but be careful to avoid the "shrieking", fluorescent, modern
hues.
Use 60" wide (150cm)
fabric, or sew two widths of 45" or 36" together. (If you have to
piece it, it is no more work to use a different color for each piece!)
Fold the fabric in quarters, with one set of folds at the top and
one fold running the long way down the middle of what will become
the front (see diagram).
Take the following
measurements, being sure to add an additional 1/2" for seams.
- Neck to floor,
or wherever you plan to stop (plus 2" for hem)
- Neck to waist
- Neck to widest
part of chest
- 1/4 waist plus
1" ease or more, depending on style (plus 1/2" seam allowance)
- 1/4 chest plus
1" ease or more depending on style (plus 1/2" seam allowance)
- 2" for an armpit
gusset
- As wide as
your most comfortable shirt sleeves (plus 1/2" seam allowance)
The dotted lines
suggest neck and sleeve lines. Pick whichever seems closest to the period
you are trying for. Cut out the tunic. When cutting out the neck opening,
it is best to underestimate your head size and cut too small at first.
Enlarge the opening little by little until it is the size you want.
Remember that a little cutting can make a big difference.
With the right
sides (the outside of the fabric together, sew up the side seams.
Put commercial bias tape around the neck opening so the fabric does
not unravel when you put in on and take it off. Hem the bottom. Put
on any trim that you want. Wear it over a turtleneck, pants and boots,
or over a lighter-weight version of the same tunic with narrower sleeves.
For most periods,
the more cloth you use, the more upper-class the effect. Also, very
long floor-length skirts are easier to wear when very full. Add gores
at #A and perhaps also at center back. The closer you come to a full
circle, the better. At that point, you can walk in a skirt four to
five inches longer than your neck-to-floor measurement without picking
up your skirt.
For men, the length
can be anywhere from hip to ankle, depending on the period. The dotted
line with start could be a side seam for men, and also for very early
women's dress.
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