UPDATE: We have stopped selling these kits due to the tiny profit margin

Please feel free to make yourself one of these kits...they do work.

UPDATE:Make sure you tip the filter somehow so oil doesn't sit against the paper filter element or it will leak through and defeat the purpose.

This is not a business. We originally made this system for my 2002 Trans Am and decided to sell it as a service. Full build specs are listed below.

The was designed to stop oil from entering the intake manifold through the PCV system.

The LS1 engines are notorious for "drinking" oil at high RPMs...so much so that GM accepts as much as 1 quart per 2,000 miles as normal consumption. People have reported as much as 1 quart per 16 1/4 mile drag races, though this is not the norm.

Most people won't experience this much oil loss, but no matter how you drive, oil will definately get into the intake via the factory PCV system. There have been inline filter setups, but the filters fill up rather quickly and the soaked filters hinder the vacuum required to keep the PCV system functioning correctly. With this kit, there is only 1 filter, but it located after the catch can as an extra measure of caution. The catch can will collect the oil, and the filter will collect any residue that escapes the can.

There are a few side affects to leaving the factory setup as it is:

The only good reason to NOT upgrade the PCV system is to retain the factory warranty. This kit is completely removabe and does not require modification to the stock lines OF ANY KIND. You can run this kit and remove it when you go to the dealership and there will be zero evidence.

Here is the can sitting on top of my MTI Clear Lid.
I get more comments on the lid than anything else.

The system is a true bolt-on...in fact, there is only 1 bolt! The bracket clamps down over the crimp on the AC line next to the oil fill tube. Don't worry, the crimped area is more than strong enough to handle the light pressure required to mount the catch can.

There is no need to cut any existing hoses and the whole unit can be removed to bring the car back to stock without any evidence of modification.

Installation is a snap and will take about 10 minutes. You will need a flathead screwdriver.

The top of the catch can unscrews so it can be emptied out periodically. The can holds approximately 1/4 quart.

We use reinforced clear tubing to see how dirty the intake line is and how clean the outlet is.

For F-bodies with EGR, the can just needs to be spun around so the inlet and outlet are facing backwards. The tubing will go behind the oil fill tube.

You need to unhook the PCV valve (as shown). It will stay connected to the car via the heatsink cable attached to the block.

Put the coupler into the PCV valve tubing.

We trim the filter tips down because they are long and stepped.

Here is the partially assembled filter segment of tubing sitting on top of my MTI Clear Lid. We ship the kit without assembling this piece because you may want to route your tubing differently than we did. We include extra tubing just for this purpose.

Attach the filter segment of tubing to the outlet (top) barbed connector.
IMPORTANT: Make sure you use the top connector as the outlet. This will help keep oil from going downstream to the filter. The filter is there as a safety net because gases and some slight oil residue still leaves the can and goes into the intake.

Before

After. Note: If you have EGR, then you'll route the tubing around the back side of the oil fill tube.

Email me @ soslols1@yahoo.com if you have any questions.

The kit is no longer being sold. It was for $65 (that included shipping).

Questions, Comments? email soslols1@yahoo.com.

This is not a business. We originally made this kit for my 2002 Trans Am and decided to sell it as a service.

These are the approximate Orchard Supply / Home Depot prices. Some items are cheaper at one place but more expensive at another - thats the part that sucks :-)
Speding hours driving around to each place to find the parts or to save a few bucks.

The total price for the parts is about $26 including tax.

ABS cement cost $1-$2. Most people have a drill with bits and a hacksaw. The tap is the oddball.

It takes about 3 total working hours to make one of these kits from start (hardware store) to finish (post office). There is some down time in between for the ABS cement to dry and set up. So it usually an entire evening after work to do one.

Shipping generally costs about $4.50 -$7.00 for postage, and about $.50 for packaging (little box with bubble wrap).

The total tangible cost (not including tools) for each one of these is roughly $35.

If you'd like us to build one and ship it to you, we are charging $65 and feel that this is a fair price (thats including the shipping costs to U.S.) considering the amount of time spent on each one.

Feel free to make your own. We've made about 6 different versions just to test different can styles and mounting locations until we found the one that would work for all F-bodies.

UPDATE: I've re-routed the line over my Strut Tower Brace so oil doesn't seep through the filter.

UPDATE: Here is a picture of the filter after a few weeks of hard daily driving. Notice the color of the filter before the element and after it. Even though oil accumulates in the can, apparently there is a lot of oil vapor! I also put arrows on the picture to show the flow of air/oil through the PCV system.


NEW UPDATE: Here is some instructions for trying the inline vertical filter (without catch can). I am using this right now and it seems to be working. Surely someone else has thought of this, but I haven't seen a site. If you have, email me and I will post the link here. 

You will need 2 tools to do this:
1. A phillips (cross) screwdriver
2. A Knife

Go to the Hardware store and pick up the following:
(2) feet of 3/8" I.D. - 5/8" O.D. reinforced plastic tubing [about $0.81 per foot] 
(4) small hoseclamps for 5/8" O.D. tubing [$0.89 each] 

Now go to the auto parts store:
(1) Volkswagon Fuel Filter (I get this at Allied Auto Stores) [about $2.50] 
It is clear with a yellow paper filter inside, and it has (2) 1 inch long tips.
(you can see pictures of this filter above )

You need to put this filter in between your pcv valve and the hose coming out of your passenger side valve cover.

The whole point of this exercise is to splice the filter into the pcv return line before the pcv valve. 

This will help your oil consumption. When you stop the oil consumption, your car will love you. 
I recommend cleaning the car out before you go to the dyno for tuning though. 
Use GM Top End Cleaner, or at least use Throttle Body cleaner and clean the back side of the throttle body...because it will be so nasty from all of the oil, and some residue will still get in. 

Here is a different site with pictures of the PCV setup:
http://www.fbody.com/members/stevenmh/Firebird_HTML/pcv_mod.htm

Good luck!